Historians say surfing was a pastime of the Peruvian fishermen, although they used rafts made from the totora reed, rather than surfboards as we know them today. The ocean was their main source of sustenance and they learned how to use their rafts surfboard-style to help catch fish.
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Research suggests surfing was an important part of ancient Polynesian culture, when the chief of the tribe was the man who was the best surfer.
English naval captain James Cook observed surfing during his explorations of the Pacific in the 1770s. He wrote in his journal of the "supreme pleasure" that the local men enjoyed when surfing, describing them as being "driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea".
Today, people who have never tried surfing may be discouraged by thinking it's just a young person's sport. On the contrary, studies by the International Surfing Association show 60% of all surfers are older than 25, so there's no barrier to learning, no matter your age.
The world's oldest competitive surfer was believed to be the legendary Barry "Magoo" McGuigan - who was still surfing regularly when he died in 2014 at the age of 85. He began in about 1944 and was a regular at Bondi and Tamarama beaches in Australia for decades.
How do you learn how to surf?
There's plenty to learn for the beginner. The first task is learning how to paddle out and the second is how to catch the perfect wave.
The joy of surfing lies mainly in knowing how to catch the waves, so for a beginner, small and close waves are the best to hone your technique. It may not seem like a lot of fun lying on the beach, practising the pop-up technique on the sand, but once you master the basics, it gives you the confidence to try the move on the waves.
When you learn the correct techniques to take off successfully without falling, you can progress to bigger waves without problems. Catching the wave is about positioning and timing, so when you've mastered the basics, you'll have the power to catch any wave you want over time.
How do surfers find the perfect wave?
Catching the wave describes the point when the wave hits the tail of your surfboard, pushing you as you're paddling along. In general, you wouldn't attempt to catch the wave at the exact moment it was breaking, as it would normally cause you to nosedive or "pearl".
Usually, you need to catch the wave just before or after it has broken. Before it breaks, try to stand up as you're starting to drop down the face of the wave. After it breaks, it turns into white wash, so you'll be pushed towards the shore as you start to stand.
In order to get it right, estimate where the wave will break and decide when you need to start to paddle so you're in the best place to catch it. This is something that comes with practice.
Once you've got the hang of this, turn the board so the nose faces the beach and begin paddling just as the wave is coming, so you can catch it at the right moment. As the wave approaches, lie flat on top of your board and make sure you're in the "sweet spot". If you're too far forward, you'll probably pearl. After finding your balance, keep up with the wave's speed gradually. After a while, as the speed increases, the wave will pick you up. At this point, you will realise that you've caught your first wave!
When you think you’re on top of the basic techniques of catching the wave, it's all about practicing. Like all sports, it takes time and effort to learn how to surf well. Don't be discouraged if you don't grasp it straight away. If you stick with it, you will find it’s well worth the effort to reap the rewards, such as catching a wave all the way to the beach, or getting your first glimpse of a barrel.
There's no set time before you become a confident surfer, as everyone's different. Surfing is an intricate sport and it can be challenging to enjoy your first achievements. For every time you ride a wave, there may be five wipe-outs! This is what keeps surfing interesting: there's always something new to learn.
The best time of year to surf
While you’re perfecting your technique, it might be better to start when the surf is small. Not only will you find this more manageable, but you will also be able to enjoy the tranquillity of a beach that isn’t overrun with pros.
In the UK, the high season runs between September and May, but the best surf can be enjoyed during the autumn months – so there’s no time like the present, folks! The water will be cold, so make sure you invest in a wetsuit.
A heavy-duty container with a lid can be used to clean your wetsuit after you have been in the sea. Submerge the wetsuit in cool water and hose it down, without using detergents, as they could perish the material.
Keep your dry clothes and towel in a waterproof storage box, so you have something warm to change into when you get out of the water.